WA・ZO・ME

和染

伝統の技術に、化学の目を。
Applying modern chemistry to traditional technology

長年日本の繊維産業を支えてきた足利。
そこには染め加工に関する多くの技術や知識が蓄積されています。
足利サムライファイバーでは、環境問題の観点からもその価値が見直されている日本の伝統的な自然染めに着目、新しい技術の研究・開発を進めています。従来の自然染めの技法に化学的な目を向け、現代の生きた技術として再構築していく。それが私たち足利サムライファイバーの提案する「WA・ZO・ME(和染め)」です。

Ashikaga has been supporting Japan’s textile industry for a long, long time.
In this time, it has accumulated a wealth of technology and knowledge relating to dyeing processes.
Ashikaga Samurai Fiber conducts research and development on new technologies, focused on traditional and natural Japanese dyeing methods, which are being appreciated anew in the light of today’s environmental problems. By applying modern chemistry to long-established, natural dyeing techniques, we are reconstructing these methods as contemporary living technologies. This, in essence, is the WA·ZO·ME (“Japanese dyeing”) concept proposed by Ashikaga Samurai Fiber.

染色

SUMI-ZOME

炭染

  • 消臭
    deodorize
  • 抗菌
    antibacterial
  • 吸湿
    moisture absorption
  • 環境
    ecology

炭染前と後

炭染前と後
Before and after SUMI ZOME

炭染した刺し子

炭染した刺し子
SUMI ZOME quilting

染色に使用する地下30mから汲み上げた地下水

染色に使用する地下30mから汲み上げた地下水
Groundwater pumped from a depth of 30 m for dyeing

消臭・抗菌からエコまで、驚きの炭染め効果。

Surprising SUMI ZOME effects—from deodorant and antibacterial, to ecological

木材を高温で焼きあげた木炭は、その表面にミクロン単位の小さな孔(あな)が無数にあいています。この孔には吸着性があり、ニオイ成分を取り込んで消臭効果を発揮します。さらにカルボン酸・フェノール基・亜鉛・窒素等の成分を含み、穏やかな抗菌性も備えています。
また染料としての木炭は優れたエコロジー素材でもあります。自然に還りやすい天然素材が主成分であるだけでなく、マンガンやマグネシウムといったミネラル物質を含んでおり、染色後の廃液は河川を浄化する働きをします。
こうした木炭の特性を繊維に活かす技術が炭染めです。

The surface of charcoal, a material produced by burning wood at high temperature, contains countless, tiny, micron-scale perforations. Thanks to their adsorptive properties, these holes generate a deodorizing effect by trapping odor-causing substances. Charcoal also possesses mild antibacterial properties, due to components such as carboxylic acids, phenols, zinc, and nitrogen.
As a dye, charcoal is a highly eco-friendly material. For one thing, its main constituents are originally from nature and can easily return to it, but since charcoal also contains manganese, magnesium, and other minerals, the waste fluid left over from dyeing helps to purify river water.
SUMI ZOME is a technology that takes advantage of charcoal’s properties to create better fibers.

The molecule structure of the charcoal

炭の分子
A molecule of charcoal

炭染めポリエステルへの挑戦

The challenge of SUMI ZOME polyester

この炭染めを使った新しい製品を生み出すべく、足利サムライファイバーが取り組んだのが、合成繊維の炭染めです。これまで合成繊維、なかでも分子構造が緻密なポリエステルは、染料分子が入り込みにくく炭染めが難しいとされてきました。
この問題を解決するために私たちは化学的アプローチによる試行錯誤を繰り返し、ついにポリエステル繊維にも有効な現代版の炭染めの開発に成功しました。化学繊維と炭染め。この新しい融合が繊維の可能性を大きく広げていきます。

To create new products using SUMI ZOME technology, Ashikaga Samurai Fiber has worked on charcoal dyeing of synthetic fibers. SUMI ZOME dyeing of synthetic fibers, especially polyesters, which have a dense molecular structure, has always been considered difficult, because dye molecules do not penetrate easily into the fibers.
To solve this problem, we took a scientific approach, engaging in repeated trial and error. Finally, we succeeded in developing a modern version of SUMI ZOME that is even effective with polyester fibers. Synthetic fibers and SUMI ZOME. This new fusion will greatly expand the possibilities of fibers.

圧力を調整することで化学繊維にも染色可能

圧力を調整することで化学繊維にも染色可能
Chemical fibers can be dyed by adjusting pressure.

染色

KAI-BAI

貝灰

  • 防炎
    flameproof
  • 消臭
    deodorize
  • 抗菌
    antibacterial
  • 環境
    ecology

新たなるWA・ZO・MEの開発
Development of new WA·ZO·ME

足利サムライファイバーでは、新しい染料の開発にも力を入れています。そのひとつとして、木炭よりもさらに粒子が細かい貝灰(貝殻を焼成した多孔質物質)や珪藻土、サンゴの化石などを染料にした技術開発が進行中です。これらは、古くから壁材として使われてきた喰(しっくい)の材料にも用いられ、防炎をはじめ抗菌・消臭・遮光などの機能を備えています。さらに染め上がりも白やアイボリー系カラーのため、より幅広い用途で利用できる自然染料として期待されています。

貝灰(ホタテ)の分子

貝灰(ホタテ)の分子
A molecule of KAI BAI (scallops)

サンゴ化石の分子

サンゴ化石の分子
A molecule of coral fossil

珪藻土の分子

珪藻土の分子
A molecule of diatomaceous earth

Another field of Ashikaga Samurai Fiber’s research is the development of new dyes. One project aims at developing dyeing techniques that utilize materials with particles that are even finer than those of charcoal. Such materials include KAI BAI (a porous material made by firing seashells), diatomaceous earth, and coral fossils. Long used in plasters for walls, these materials are not only fireproof, but they also possess antibacterial, deodorant, and light-shielding properties. Furthermore, since they produce a finish of white or ivory color, these natural dyes are expected to have a wide range of potential applications.

捺色

KAKI-SHIBU

柿渋

  • 防水
    waterproof
  • 防虫
    moth repellent
  • 防腐
    antiseptic
  • 環境
    ecology

 

独自技術により、柿渋を使ったプリント柄や25mの長尺物も染色可能に

独自技術により、柿渋を使ったプリント柄や25mの長尺物も染色可能に
Our unique technology allows KAKI SHIBU to be used for printing patterns and dyeing 25 m lengths of cloth.

手工業品から工業製品へ

From handicraft to industrial products

渋柿を圧搾機で搾りを自然発酵させてつくった柿渋にはカキタンニンという成分が含まれており、空気に触れると硬化して水や湿気を防ぐ皮膜を作ります。
この柿渋を染料とした柿渋染めは対腐食性・耐水性・防カビ・防菌効果があり、古くから様々なものに幅広く利用されてきました。
足利サムライファイバーでは、この柿渋を研究し、これまで「染める」「ハケで塗る」だけだった柿渋染めに、新たに柄をプリントする方法を確立。手工業品であった柿渋染めを工業製品として扱えるように改良しました。

KAKI SHIBU is juice produced by squeezing astringent persimmons (shibugaki) with a press and leaving the extract to ferment naturally. It contains an ingredient called persimmon tannin, which hardens on contact with air to form a water- and moisture-proof film.
KAKI SHIBU dyeing, which utilizes astringent persimmon juice for its resistance to corrosion, water, and mold, and for its antibacterial properties, is a long-established technique employed for dyeing a wide variety of materials.
At Ashikaga Samurai Fiber, we investigated this persimmon juice and established a new way of using it to print patterns. (Previously, KAKI SHIBU dyeing was only used for simple dyeing or brush painting.) In other words, we have improved on KAKI SHIBU dyeing so that it can now be employed for industrial products as well as handicrafts.

Our unique technology allows KAKI SHIBU to be used for printing patterns and dyeing 25 m lengths of cloth.

柿渋捺染の特長

Features of our KAKI SHIBU Nassen (textile printing)

(1) 柔らかな染め上がり
染めを繰り返すほど硬くなる柿渋の特性を独自の技術によって低減。肌に直接触れる衣料に利用できるほど柔らかく仕上げることが可能になりました。

(1) Soft dye finish
With technology we developed ourselves, we managed to weaken the tendency of astringent persimmon juice to cause hardening with repeated dyeing. This has made it possible to achieve a finish soft enough for cloth that touches skin directly.

(2) 工程の短縮
色の濃度を上げるために、従来では数十回必要だった[染め]→[乾燥]の工程を数回に短縮。品質、納期ともに安定的な供給を可能にしました。

(2) Faster process
We dramatically shortened the [dyeing] → [drying] process. Previously, the process had to be repeated dozens of times to build up the color intensity; now several times is enough. This innovation enables a reliable supply of textile, both in terms of quality and delivery time.

(3) 反物としての柿渋染め
2~3色の柿渋色を使って柄を自由にプリント。反物として長尺物やパターン柄の製作が可能になりました。

(3) KAKI SHIBU as kimono fabric
Patterns can be printed freely using two or three KAKI SHIBU colors. So it is now possible to produce long lengths or patterned pieces of textile for use as kimono fabrics.

捺色

YU-ZEN

友禅染

伝統の技に最先端の技術を重ねて日本を彩る
Cutting-edge technology and traditional skill combine to add color to Japan

鮮やかな舞子衣装

鮮やかな舞子衣装
Vivid Maiko Costume

優雅な舞台衣装

優雅な舞台衣装
Elegant stage costume

繊細な地模様に名前が映える祭り半纏

繊細な地模様に名前が映える祭り半纏
A festival covered with a name reflecting a delicate background pattern

優雅に舞う舞妓・芸妓の着物から舞台に映える斬新な役者衣装まで、繊細で鮮やかな表現を可能にする友禅染。その始まりは江戸時代の元禄期(1688〜1704年)といわれています。
足利サムライファイバーの友禅染は、300年以上にわたって継承された伝統的な技術に最先端の技術を取り込みながら進化。着物だけでなく “粋”を羽織るといわれる「祭半纏」にも利用され、柄、色合い、細部の仕上げにいたるまで、伝統様式を守りながら様々な要望に応えています。
最近では、鮮やかな原色の色づかいが特徴的な沖縄の紅型衣装をはじめ、連ごとの個性が際立つ伝統的な阿波踊り衣装、そして全国規模で競われている「よさこい踊り」の衣装など、まさに日本中の祭りを彩っています。

YU ZEN dyeing enables delicate and vividly expressive designs on everything from the kimonos of elegantly dancing maiko and geiko to the original, glittering costumes of stage actors. YU ZEN is said to have originated in the Genroku era (1688–1704) of the Edo period.
The YU ZEN of Ashikaga Samurai Fiber is advanced by combining state-of-the-art technology with traditional techniques handed down from generation to generation for over 300 years. In addition to kimonos, this method is applied to matsuri hanten (festival coats), a garment that instantly conveys iki (stylishness). Although we preserve the traditional style, we cater to a wide-ranging demand in terms of design, color, and even finish detail.
Recently, we have worked on bingata costumes of Okinawa, characterized by vivid primary colors, as well as costumes for the traditional awa odori dance, in which each group has its own distinctive look, and costumes for yosakoi, a style of dance performed all over the country. Quite literally, our YU ZEN is coloring the festivals of Japan.

COMPANY

和染をつなぐ4人のサムライ
Four people samurai connecting Japanese dyeing

染色 炭染・貝灰

有限会社初山染工 初山 亮二

有限会社初山染工
初山 亮二

Hatsuyama Dyers
Corporation

機能を染めて
新しい用途を開発する。
Developing new applications through functional dyeing.

「染色は化学!」と作務衣に下駄履きという粋な出で立ちで熱く語る初山社長は、サムライファイバーの人気者。「科学」というのは「機能性染色」の世界。防虫・防水・撥水など染めの技術を使った新しい用途開発だ。中でも現在開発に集中しているのは「防炎」。燃え広がらずに自己消火させる防炎剤を染めた機能生地の開発である。手慣れた染めの技術でも、目的に合った十分な機能を発揮させるには研究すべき課題が多いと言う。生地ごとに異なる下処理、温度、時間、そして余剰材の除去など、非常に手間のかかる作業が求められる。少しでもその手間を惜しめば処理後の製品に滲みや変色、染めムラや加工臭を残してしまう。大変だから普通の染屋はやらない。ならば!とこれまでの経験の上に実験を重ね、ついにプリント生地への防炎処理も可能にする新技術を生み出した。どこにもない技術の誕生。それは必ずや新しいニーズを引き寄せ、大きな市場を創造するに違いない。

"Dyeing is a science" claims the company president passionately, stylishly attired in a samue (Zen work clothes) and geta (traditional Japanese clogs). Mr. Hatsuyama, a popular member of the Samurai Fiber community, applies science to the world of functional dyeing. Using innovative dyeing technology, the company has developed new applications centered on functions such as water resistance, insect resistance, and water repellence. Right now, efforts are focused on flame retardation. This is the development of functional fabrics dyed with a flame retarding agent that self-extinguishes in the event of a fire to prevent the spread of flames. As Mr. Hatsuyama points out, however, even with sophisticated dyeing techniques, developing materials with the functionality to match requirements involves many different research challenges. This work is very laborious because factors such as pretreatment, temperature, time, and the removal of surplus material are different for each kind of fabric. And if this work is not done thoroughly, the product after pretreatment is likely to bleed, discolor, be unevenly dyed, or smelly. This work is so tough that a normal dyeing house would not even attempt it. In light of this, the company had to leverage all its accumulated expertise and run repeated experiments, but finally it managed to create a new technology for treating printed fabrics to render them fire-retardant. This new world-leading technology will undoubtedly open up large markets as it meets new emerging needs.

捺染 柿渋

鶴貝捺染工業有限会社 鶴貝 雅廣

鶴貝捺染工業有限会社
鶴貝 雅廣

Tsurugai textile printing
Corporation

刷りを知り、素材を探り、
加工を極める。
Understanding printing, exploring materials, and investigating processes.

生地への「刷りと色」を自在にコントロールすること、それが優れた捺染に求められる技術である。色には〈魅せる色〉〈落ち着かせる色〉〈引き立てる色〉といった互いの役割があり、それぞれの色の微妙な重ね具合や染料の調合は、経験豊かな技術者がその色の役割を知って結果を予測するセンスが重要だと鶴貝社長は話す。一方で色のデータ管理も非常に重要で、過去に調色したカラーデータは数万色に及び、それによって狙った色に素早く近づけることが可能となる。また、最近は環境・人に優しい、天然材料の柿渋や炭を使用した染プリント加工にも力を入れている。防腐・防虫・防水に優れた〈柿渋〉、消臭効果のある〈炭・炭液〉を衣料用に加工して市場へ展開している。さらに近年注目されている「足利銘仙」を広幅(100~120cm)で復活させ、洋装へのニーズに応える体制が整った。今後もプリントだけでなく特殊な加工方法を開発し皆様に提案していくそうだ。

The ability to freely control the printing and coloring of fabrics is a vital technology for truly excellent results. CEO Mr. Tsurugai explains that color serves a number of interrelated functions—e.g., attracting, soothing, and emphasizing—and that to control the delicate process of mixing colors and prepare the dyes to achieve the desired effects for each of these functions, it is vital to have an experienced technical expert with enough understanding of these color functions to predict the finished result. At the same time, color data management is also very important, because data on past color mixing makes it possible to quickly approximate a desired color from a palette of tens of thousands. Recently, the company has also been working on a printing process for garment dyeing that uses natural dyes such as kakishibu (persimmon tannin) and charcoal, which are environment-friendly and non-toxic. It is now marketing kakishibu dyes, which offer excellent decay resistance, insect resistance, and water resistance, and charcoal and liquid charcoal dyes, which function as deodorants. Another recent initiative, focused on the recent revival of interest in Ashikaga meisen (common silk fabrics) of double width (100 to 120 cm), aims at addressing demand for use in clothing. In addition to its printing work, the company will be developing special processing techniques in the years ahead, so we can expect to see it deliver more interesting offerings.

企画 和装規格

株式会社田野商店 田野 雅己

株式会社田野商店
田野 雅己

Tano Stores
Co,.Ltd.

地域ネットワークで
開発をプロデュース。
Stimulating developing through regional networks.

様々な専門技術をもった繊維関連企業が集まる足利。この地で商品企画からデザイン提案、試作から量産管理を経て納品までプロデュースするのは「足利ファイバーテクノロジープロジェクト」の代表も務める田野社長。製造に関する幅広い知識と経験を活かし、地域企業の技術情報に精通し、モノづくりのネットワークを活用したプロダクトプロデュース。その難しい依頼にも丁寧に対応される、人間力とバイタリティに、メンバーも大きな信頼を寄せている。日本の伝統を伝える「よさこい踊り」の祭り衣装やイベントコスチュームなど、個性的で手間が掛かる特殊衣装の開発を得意とし、最近ではインターネットによる海外からの「和」テイストのグッズオーダーにも対応する。それには依頼主のニーズを汲みとる感性と納期や予算の中で製造過程を予測できるバランスが重要だ。我らが「サムライファイバー」の総大将は、海外市場も視野に入れた、世界基準のパワフル営業マンだ。

Ashikaga is home to numerous textile-related businesses that between them possess a wide range of specialized technologies. Company president Mr. Tano is involved in the whole chain of local production, from product conception, design, and trial manufacture, to mass production management and delivery of finished products. At the same time, he serves as a representative of the Ashikaga Fiber Technology Project. With extensive know-how and experience in manufacturing, and an intimate knowledge of local companies, he works essentially as a product producer, utilizing a network of manufacturers. Mr. Tano is seen as a pillar within the network, because of his ability to respond politely to even the most difficult requests, and also for his personality and great vitality. His forte is the development of special, unique garments such as yosakoi dance costumes, for traditional Japanese festivals and other events—something that requires much energy. Recently, he has even started fulfilling orders from overseas, fueled by growing demand for “cool Japan” goods. In all this, the ability to sense the needs of the client and the ability to determine the right manufacturing process, taking into account delivery time and budget, are both important. As well as being the commander-in-chief of the Samurai Fiber initiative, Mr. Tano is a world-class salesman with a good eye for international market opportunities.

捺染 友禅

有限会社いろどり 須永 浩吉

有限会社いろどり
須永 浩吉

Irodori
Corporation

日本の伝統衣装を
未来へつなげる。
Stimulating developing through regional networks.

(株)いろどりの創業は明治28年。もう一世紀以上も渡良瀬の麓で友禅染を営んできた老舗です。日本の伝統衣装に寄り添いながら繊細な表現を探求し、優雅に舞う舞妓・芸妓の着物から、舞台映えのする斬新な役者衣装まで幅広い絵柄の友禅染を手掛けてきました。また、男衆が“粋”を羽織る「祭半纏」に対しても柄や色合い細部の仕上げにまで、伝統様式を守りながら様々な要望に応えています。日本各地の祭り衣装との関わりは大変広く、鮮やかな原色の色づかいが映える沖縄の紅型衣装を始め、連ごとに個性を放つ伝統的な阿波踊り衣装、そして全国で競われるよさこい踊りの衣装などまさに日本中の祭りを彩っています。今後は継承された技術に最先端の技術も取り込みながら、日本の伝統を未来へ受け継いでいきたいと考えています。

Irodori Co., Ltd. is an enterprise founded in 1895. For over a century, this long-established store at the foot of Watarase has been engaged in YU ZEN dyeing . In our quest to acquaint ourselves with the traditional costumes of Japan, we have explored their delicate visual expression. We have worked diligently on the YU ZEN dyeing of many different patterns—from kimonos for elegantly dancing maiko and geiko to the original glittering costumes of stage actors. At the same time, without sacrificing traditional style, we cater to a wide-ranging demand in terms of design, color, and even finish detail, for matsuri hanten (festival coat), a garment worn by men that instantly conveys iki (stylishness). In addition, we work on designs for festival costumes from all over Japan, including Okinawan bingata costumes, characterized by vivid primary colors, as well as costumes for the traditional awa odori dance, in which each group has its own distinctive look, and costumes for yosakoi, a style of dance performed all over the country. Quite literally, we are coloring the festivals of Japan. Looking ahead, our vision is to preserve and hand down Japanese tradition for the future, by integrating leading-edge technology into our technological heritage.